Saturday, January 15, 2005
Lesson No. 5
Got there at last, after delaying for a week after my toe suffered a painful encounter with a bed sheet and Sara said surfing probably wasn't a good idea. Today, however, we both left the beach in more or less the same state as we arrived. Most of the time in between was spent standing up. On the board, that is. There was another irritating child, gliding past us. Her father was particularly irritated, he told me, as he couldn't stand up at all. We also discovered that jockeys are natural surfers because they're light and used to spending time in a crouching position on something long and unstable with a mind of its own. The lessons have been a great Christmas present and we think we'll hire boards, while we build our confidence. Neither of us have been "out the back" (beyond the break) where the big boys play and I think we'll be staying in the wash (waves after they've broken) for a while. It's quite addictive.
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